Full Head Bust

I released the bust last night and it seemed to have worked out pretty well. I have to fix the nose a little and sand out a couple of bubbles and the alginate seam down the back. The dark patches are areas that are still damp on the surface. I got a great impression of the eyebrows and eyelashes (including a couple of hairs), not that they are very important for this project. But an overall decent result for my first full head casting.

Full Head Casting: Take 2

Today I re-attempted to cast a full head. I bought a higher quality alginate and bald cap. I also employed the assistance of a friend with casting experience to help me work a little faster for the sake of my model.

I started by making up a small sample of the alginate, because the container said that you only needed to cover hair with a release agent, that it would not stick to other surfaces. So I put a small sample on the bald cap, and indeed, it peeled right off.

I attached the bald cap with spirit gum and applied vaseline to the model's exposed hair (sideburns, eyebrows, eyelashes). I then had him insert his own breathing straws for comfort.

 I then mixed the alginate with an electric mixer to speed the process. The alginate was supposed to be mixed at a 1:1 ratio, but I reduced the water a little to get a thicker consistency so that it would not run down the face as much. Based on my first attempt (see earlier post), I used a bottled water to mix the alginate because the tap water here is unsuitable.

We began applying the alginate starting with the undercut parts of the face: chin, mouth/nose, eyes, ears. After those sections were covered we began dumping the remaining alginate over his head, allowing it to run down over the features. We had to be constantly vigilant about the alginate under the chin and ears because it kept running down the neck.

 As soon as the alginate was on, and before it was set, I added small pieces of terrycloth to the front half to help the plaster bandages stick to the alginate. We gave the alginate about 10 extra minutes to fully set. We then began applying the plaster bandages across the front half of the head to create a hard shell to support the alginate. I added three 'keys' in the bandages to allow the front and back to have a perfect fit when we realigned them. We built up the wall around the edge of the bandages for extra support at the meeting point.

 After allowing the plaster time to dry, I applied a layer of vaseline along the meeting edge and keys so that the back half could be laid down right against the front and not stick. Once the two halves were together, we allowed them plenty of time to dry.

 To remove the cast, I carefully removed the back half of the plaster shell using a screwdriver to wedge apart any sticking plaster. Once the shell was off, I slowly cut a slit up the back of the alginate from the neck to the edge of the front shell. The model then leaned forward and slowly removed the shell and alginate together by wiggling his face until the alginate came loose as we helped pull the slit around his head. After the cast is off, I attempted to glue the slit back together with spirit gum (which was what my instructions indicated, but didn't work very well). To put the plaster shells back together, you spray the inside of the back shell with a spray adhesive, fit the two pieces back together, and tie/tape them. I found the tape did not work very well because the plaster was still damp.

 Once the shells were back together, i set up a box with packing peanuts and cloths to support the cast while the gypsum cement bust set up. Before pouring the cement, I noticed that the alginate was starting to leak water out and it was collecting the the crown of the head. I made sure to continuously soak it up so that a bubble of liquid did not form in the top of the bust.

Once the cast was set up and ready to go, I began mixing my gypsum cement. The package indicated a ratio of 38:100 water to cement. This makes a thin creamy substance, but beware, it will set faster than you think. I used a paint stick to help guide the cement into the head and to help prevent air bubbles. Using a ladle, I poured the cement down the stick to let it slowly fill the bottom of the head. As it rises it pushes the air out ahead of it. I gave the cast a couple of taps as the cement filled the nose and chin to help any bubbles come to the surface. The directions I had said to make the gypsum in two batches. I made the mistake of not having the second batch already measured, and the first batch was quickly setting Although it was still viscous enough when I began pouring the second batch, i made a couple of small indentations in the first to give the second a set of keys to stick in. Always be prepared with your next step.

Now I must wait 24 hours until removing the bust from its shell. Then it will need about a week to fully dry.

Direct Clay Mask

My next mask is the direct clay application. This means that I will take the clay and form it by molding it directly to my face. To start, you'll need a kiln or oven-bake clay, a mirror, and a variety of clay tools.

Start by applying a liberal coating of vaseline to the face to prevent the clay from sticking to the hair and skin. Then, take a large chunk of clay that will be able to cover the face and begin pushing it over the features, starting with the nose. You want the thickness to stay between 3/8" and 1/2" for optimal baking. Leave holes for either/both the nose or mouth so that you can breathe.

I actually had a very hard time keeping the clay on my face because the layer of vaseline was causing an adhesion problem. I got the general shape of the mask and then took it off to smooth out the features. If I did this technique again, I would try it without the vaseline since clay does not usually stick badly to skin.

Full Head Casting: Take 1

The largest project in my plan is the full-head casting latex mask. It is done is several parts:  

1. Casting the head into a plaster bust (dry time: one week)

2. Create the clay mock-up

3. Make the second negative mold

4. Make the latex mask using the positive and negative molds

Today I attempted to do the first step: casting a head. Let's just say it did not go as planned. I began by putting a bald cap on my model, cutting the ear holes, and sealing the edges with spirit gum. Unfortunately, it was an ill fitting bald cap so there was some slight puckering that I tried to solve by adding darts. It was not pretty, but they were small defects I could have fixed in the final bust. Then, I completely covered his face, neck, and bald cap in a layer of vaseline to act as a release agent for the alginate. I had the model insert large drinking straws into his nostrils to allow him to continue breathing under the casting.

Next, I began mixing the 3lbs. of alginate. I am using a body-casting grade 8 minute setting alginate. I had pre-measured the powder and water (room temp) in a 1:1 ratio as specified by the manufacturer. I added the water to the powder and mixed until it became a creamy liquid the consistency of cake batter. With a spatula I began applying the alginate in the undercut areas of the face: ears, under the chin, nose, and eyes. By the time I got to the eyes, (2 min) the alginate in my bucket was starting to clump up in a way I have never seen alginate behave before. It looked like a cross between cottage cheese and styrofoam chunks. It became unusable, not sticking to itself or anything else.

I had to abandon my casting attempt because I did not have enough remaining alginate to try again. I am still not sure why the alginate acted in this way and am planning to call the manufacturer tomorrow to discuss what may have happened. I will also do a small test sample with some remaining powder to see if it was user error or possibly a bad batch.

In any case, attempt one has failed. I will try again with a different brand of alginate to see if I can get improved results.

Update: So I have discovered the reason for my alginate fail. My new brand came with more detailed instructions that said to make a test batch because a lot of tap water is not adequate for alginate because it contains too much calcium and phosphorus which will make the alginate clump. Moral of the story: ALWAYS MAKE A TEST BATCH!

Direct Plaster Mask

Today I began making my first project: the direct plaster gauze mask. You start by cutting the plaster bandages into various lengths and widths; longer pieces for across the forehead, smaller and thinner for around the nose and mouth. You will also need to set up a mirror since you are applying to your own face.

The first step is to cover your face in vaseline, paying special attention to eyebrows, eyelashes, and the hairline. There is a balance between enough vaseline to stop hair from being caught and too much so the bandages won't stick.

 

 Start by applying strips to the forehead, cheeks, and over the nose. Then alternate size and direction to fill in the rest of the face.

 Carefully plan around the eyes and mouth what shape you want and whether they are open or closed. For closed eyes you will need an assistant to add the first layer or two. Build up several layers (3-5) to give the mask sufficient thickness and stability. Before removing, put an extra layer around the edges for stiffness.

Let the mask sit on the face for 15-20 minutes to allow the plaster to dry. Then slowly begin moving the facial muscles to detach the plaster from the skin. Wiggle the mouth and scrunch the eyes to make sure the plaster is loose from these delicate areas. Then lean forward and gently pull the mask off. Keep a sharp, thin tool or exacto knife nearby in case pieces of hair are caught along the edges of the mask.

 Once the mask is off, lay it on a bundle of newspaper or fabric to support it while it fully dries. Use sandpaper and an exacto knife to finish the eyes and mouth.

The Beginning.....

As a senior project, I have chosen to create eight masks using different techniques and materials that are commonly used in the theatrical and movie worlds:

~ Direct Plaster Gauze

~ Direct Clay

~ Clay Buildup

~ Liquid Latex Negative Mold

~ Liquid Latex Closed Mold

~ Celastic

~ Buckram/Fabric Laminated

~ Full Head Life Casting

For some I have picture references that I would either like to recreate or draw inspiration from. Others I have designed or sketched myself. 

This blog will be document my progress, including pictures and possibly video.

This is the first mask I ever made, a glass masquerade half-mask. It was designed to match the fabric of a 1700s robe a la francaise I made for a class. Since this first mask, I have had an overwhelming urge to make more. So here goes a two month journey... 

"Man is least himself when he talks in his own person. Give him a mask, and he will tell you the truth." ~ Oscar Wilde